Camping Out in Ballyvaughan

Ballyvaughan, Co. Clare

From the outside, Ballyvaughan doesn't look like a place for campers. A place to rent an Irish Cottage by the bay? Yes. A place to stay at a B&B? For sure. Every inch of the lands seems claimed by someone. But the setting feels so good to us, we want to stay for a while and enjoy it. Our challenge is to figure out where we can pitch our tent.

As it turns out, it was not so hard to figure out. Buying groceries, I ask the cashier if she knows of any camping in the area. She tells me about one, unofficial place. "It's not encouraged. The signs say not to," she says, "but I've seen people camp there."

We go there. It is a bird walk along the water. We wind through the trees, coming upon a low shack with horizontal, rectangular windows - it is a shelter for viewing birds in the rain. Did she mean here? Uncertain, we keep going on the trail, and, low and behold, we come upon the perfect little spot.

It is grassy. It is tucked away from view. It is on a little hill above Galway Bay, the incredible sea and sky spreading out all around. The cashier was not kidding.

We hang out in the parking lot until dark, then go claim our spot. In the fading light, we set up our tent. The beauty is breathtaking, and we tuck ourselves away, contented for the night.

Morning light comes and our eyes open. The dawn is our reward for rising early. We pack up the tent, airing out the sleeping bags in the morning air, and begin our morning rituals of breakfast followed by teeth brushing and clothes changing. My travel companion washes his hair at the faucet by the road.

We get moving discovering Ballyvaughan. We find a wondrous Saturday Summer Farmer's Market, from 10AM to 2PM in town. Local honeys, Burren Gold cumin cheese, homemade tarts and quiches, and fresh vegetables - we buy a few things for our food box in the backseat. The slice of apple rhubarb tart is a tasty second breakfast. The rock scone it's as good, I should have known from the name.

The Burren feels so good to us. We hike around all day, exploring its nooks and crannies, touring Aillwee Cave, and stumbling upon Megalithic tombs in the hush of green countryside.

In Ballyvaughan, we try out a fun Irish custom - drinking in public. Unbelievable! In fact, you can buy a pint at a pub, and take the glass outside to sip, as long as you return it to the bar when you are finished.

I remember seeing kids in Galway crowd the waterside, drinking beer out of cans on blankets spread in the grass. I am so unaccustomed to seeing alcohol consumed in public places. Bars and restaurants in the states are very strict about where you can consume alcohol, and they even get special permits for this. It is illegal to drink on the beach, so the way around it is to fill paper cups sneakily with wine or beer, and keep the bottles hidden. In a way, the rule is good, because it discourages people to bring glass on the beach. But it certainly inhibit fun. In Ireland, it seems okay to drink anywhere. This blows my mind.

We buy two pint of Guinness at Monk's Pub, and take them across the road to sip on the waterfront. Kids line up on the dock in the evening time, waiting for the tide to come in. The dock is a perfect spot for jumping. We change into our suits and jump off the pier into the cold water - so fun.

That night, we camp at the same spot. Unfortunately, some drunken tourists discover the pier in the middle of the night. The sounds caused by their screams of "this is f***ing Ireland, man" and splashes of large bodies into the water wake us up. We'll have to find a new spot.

The next evening, we camp beside Newton Castle, at The Burren College of Art. The castle was built in the 16^th century, designed as both a defensive stronghold and a status symbol. It was used for entertaining guests and as a refuge during times of danger. In 1993, following an archaeological excavation, the castle was restored by Michael Greene, founder of the college. Today, it is part of The Burren College of Art.

In the morning, we notice that two other campers have joined us for the night. I strike up a conversation with them. They are two Americans, one a graduate of the art college, both traveling Ireland for a couple weeks. The tip me off to a great hostel in Doolin, Aille River Hostel. I am learning that the way to find good places to stay is to just talk to people.

With that, we pack up our stuff and head toward Doolin.

Written by Liz O'Malley - Summer of Travel 2007