Get in:
At the foot of the Slieve Rushen, this historic town has two principal entrances: the main street and the Woodford River, part of the Shannon-Erne waterway. Ballyconnell (Beal Atha Connaill, Conall's Ford Approach) is located just a short drive by car or bus (18 m, 28 km) from Cavan Town along N87.
Get around:
Dotted with traditional storefront shops, Ballyconnell is a charming town whose quaint setting, location close to the waterway, striking beauty, and delightful aromas wafting from fine eateries like Pol D'O and Cafe Tivoli will prove irresistible. Pubs, restaurants, boutiques, gift shops, and even a trading post-a handy spot where hearty outdoorsmen can pick up a pair of Wellys-line the narrow streets, each one beckoning like a precocious child, "Look, look at me."
With so much to see and do in Ballyconnell on foot, it's hard to imagine why anyone would want to get in a car and drive away...except perhaps for the four star luxury trademark that stands atop Slieve Rushen: The Slieve Russell Hotel and Country Club. Owned by Sean Quinn (www.quinnhotels.com) this magnificent beauty, only a five-minute drive (by car, bus, or taxi) to the outskirts of Ballyconnell, stands as a postcard perfect testament to Ireland's finest.
See:
Ballyhugh Cultural Arts Centre: only a five minute drive from the Slieve Russell Hotel, the centre is well signposted (marked by road signs). It houses a variety of exhibitions, features local artworks, and displays a unique collection of artefacts and local photography. Perhaps the highlight of the centre, though, is its delightful offering of courses in everything from creative writing to traditional ceili and down-home cottage Irish dancing. For those with the stamina of a marathon runner, classes in Irish dancing begin at 9:30 on Wednesday evenings (remember that it's still early twilight at this hour, with full darkness still hours away). During the years when dancing was prohibited (1700's), along with virtually every other aspect of their cultural traditions, the Irish developed a way to dance without actually dancing! At local pubs and houses, they'd gather, and when the music started, they'd keep their upper bodies rigid and move only their feet; hence, to anyone who might be watching-and there were many about-the lads and lasses seemed to be perfectly still.
Today, Irish dance is still all about the feet (not the sort of Riverdance fame). Stomping, both to mark time (no one would dare say that an innocent stomp was a dance step) and to celebrate camaraderie, an integral part of such favourites as "The Haymakers Dance" and "Peter and the Ghost," lends a thundering, powerful swell of secrecy and sacredness to these dances. Irish dancing is not a spectator sport. Even the most timid first timer will be drawn, either magically or physically, into simple line dances by willing partners, ready to offer a word of encouragement and brief as-you-go instructions.
Marian and Joe Bradley (T 049-9526044), owners of the Ballyhugh Centre, offer visitors and regulars a warm hug, friendly smile, and an unending enthusiasm for Irish education.
Do:
Drive out to visit Drumlane Abbey: Sitting between Drumlane and Derrybrick loughs (lakes) are the remains of this 6th century monastery founded by Ireland's famed Bishop of Ferns, St. Mogue. Most striking is the rounded tower looming 11m tall. Surrounding stone walls show carvings of ancient birds, and inside is a display of several stone heads believed to be likenesses of conquered chieftains.
Drive up to Tullydermot Falls, approximately 6km southwest of Swanlinbar toward Bellavally Gap. The Tullydermot overlooks Slieve Rushen and north Cavan Town and offers a breathtaking view of the summit of Cuilcagh (kwilka) Mountain, a paradise for photographers and nature lovers.
Because of its landscape, Ballyconnell attracts anyone interested in golfing, walking, angling and fishing, cycling, mountain biking, and cruising. www.cavantourism.com, www.wildflowercycling.com
Eat:
Bayleaf in Ballyconnell. Its bright fuschia front makes it easy to spot. Friendly atmosphere, substantial meals of meat and 3 veg for $10.
The Angler's Rest in Ballyconnell, a sports bar and restaurant, offers a sumptuous buffet with starter (appetizer), main meal, and dessert for $12, all while watching the favored Gaelic football game on one of several big screen TVs.
Pol D'O, also on main street in Ballyconnell, a cozy cottage style restaurant boasting fine cuisine prepared by award winning chef, Paul O'Dowd. Side note: Paul's brother, Tom, the owner of his own island (www.trinityisland.com) is a knowledgable tour guide with a sense of humor that keeps everyone laughing.
Cafe Tivoli, off the main street, its entrance in an alleyway at the corner, this small restaurant has an excellent and extensive menu of Italian cuisine. Highly recommended Suppli di Riso (a delightful mixture of rice and melted cheese in a breadcrumb covering); homemade minestrone with bruschetta. Yummy.
Cafe Realta, located in the SuperValue shopping center, just over the bridge in Ballyconnell. A real treat awaits those who stop in for lunch here. A soup, roll, and salad for $8 is overshadowed by the view from tables next to large glass windows overlooking a canal that links to the Erne River. For the adventurous sort, opening the windows and tossing out bits of bread or rice to the flock of mallards and teals outside adds the finishing touch to a wonderful experience.
Stay:
Slieve Russell Hotel and Country Club:
Set on 300 acres of land, 50 acres of lakes, this luxury hotel shines like a jewel on the Emerald Isle. Included in the opulent interior are The Shannon Suite, elegantly bathed in light from the glass ceiling above; the Kells Bar, stunning in burgundy and gold; and the Conall Cearnach Restaurant, sparkling with crystal chandeliers, tables draped in fine linen cloth, set with gleaming silver, serving the very finest in delectable Irish cuisine. From its breathtaking gardens to the 18-hole golf course, the grandeur of the Slieve Russell is evident at every turn. Plush terry robes and slippers await each weary traveler longing to relax in elegant comfort. Hair dryers and trouser press are but a sampling of the abundant amenities. An indoor pool, spa, and sauna will revive and soothe. Suites with over-sized beds, generous living areas, Ethernet connections, roomy work desks, and marble bathrooms make every guest feel like royalty. The helpful staff, ever-generous with time, advice, helpful instructions, prompt service, and friendly faces, adds the perfect touch of sophisticated elgance and charm. The Slieve Russell, with rooms that start at $100 per person, including breakfast and dinner, is a shining jewel, glittering like a diamond on this Emerald Isle.
Written by Joy Davis - Summer of Travel 2007