In the Knocknarea Peninsula in County Sligo, northwest Ireland, some 45 stone monuments overlook the Atlantic Ocean: dolmens, chambers, and stone circles. Of the two hundred tombs believed to have occupied the site at Carrowmore, excavation, quarrying, and land clearance have destroyed all but thirty. Portal tombs, wedge tombs, passage tombs, courts cairns, and dolmens...all built in an unusual oval-shaped overall design and much lower in elevation and proximity to sea than is usual in Ireland's archaeological history. The site forms a huge bowl, an oval empty in the centre and with an opening to the north.
The earliest surviving account of the megaliths at Carrowmore date to 1739, the first written survey ordinance appearing in 1837 by George Petrie. Then in 1980, a Swedish archaeological team began a new excavation at four of the undisturbed tombs along several Stone Age settlements around nearby Knocknarea Mountain (site of Queen Maeve's Tomb, notable because of its size and its legend-Queen Maeve is said to be buried fully armed and standing so that she can watch over her territory). Radio carbon dates of many of the monuments and middens (kitchen middens settlements marked by huge deposits of shells from a main food source: oysters and mussels) indicate that Carrowmore is one of the oldest known megalithic graveyards in the world, the earliest monument having been built in or around 5,000 b.c. If these figures are correct, Carrowmore is older than Newgrange and thus a part of the Mesolithic (middle period), rather than the Neolithic (new period). One large cairn in the middle of the complex is called the Giant's Grave (#51). The remains of seven skeletons were found inside this cairn. The bones had been scratched and marked, leading to the suggestion that they might have been cleaned or defleshed before being deposited.
The Heritage Centre at Carrowmore offers guided tours (45 minutes) along some of the largest and most notable of the monuments. Knowledgeable guides share a wealth of legend, lore, and factual data. These guides are walking encyclopedias where Irish history is concerned. Brochures are available, as well, along with reading lists for the more inquisitive. Interesting wall displays, unique artefact collections, and informative plaques offer plenty of food for thought. (If you want actual food, though, you'll have to drive on. As yet, the Heritage Committee in charge of Carrowmore has not funded a restaurant. A coffee shop and restaurant would be ideal inside the Centre).
The Carrowmore Megalithic Cemetery-the largest megalithic complex in Ireland-covers an area of 1.5 miles. It is a not-to-be-missed experience for anyone interested in Irish history, pre-history, original peoples and settlements, or for those just curious about huge, ancient ruins...and how they might have gotten there. Walking along the paths beside the monuments gives ample opportunity for taking photographs and asking questions of the brilliant guides who offer their time because they love what they do. (Most are students of both archaeology and Irish history).
The largest portal tomb has been restructured to allow visitors to walk inside and see the amazing feat of engineering that went into the construction of these giants megaliths. And many of the smaller dolmens and cairns are easily accessible with a short walk along the paths created by hundreds of footsteps in the adjacent field nearby.
Hours: Open May to September 10:00 to 5:00
Admission: €4
How to get there:
From Dublin: N4 to R292 3km South of Sligo Town. Go left, approx 2km to Carrowmore. Well signposted.
From Belfast: M1/A4 to Enniskillen. A4/N16 to Sligo Town, then R292 south of Sligo Town toward Strandhill. First left and follow signs 2km to Carrowmore across from stables.
Address:
Carrowmore Megalithic Cemetery
Written by Joy Davis - Summer of Travel 2007