Kilmore Cathedral Motte and Bailey

Co. Cavan / Cavan Town

First established as a church in 885 then as a cathedral in 1485, this magnificent medieval structure stands beyond a breath-taking avenue lined with centuries-old towering oaks. Legend holds, though, that also on these grounds is an unusual sycamore tree planted by Bishop William Bedell.

A fascinating historical and ecclesiastical figure, Bedell was English, sent to Ireland in 1629 as Bishop (church ruler) to dominate and control the Irish. Instead, Bedell developed a genuine love for the country, its traditions, culture, and people...and they, for him. So beloved were the common Irish folk (who generally despised the British of this time during the Plantation-takeover and tyranny), that Bedell translated the Old Testament into its first Irish form to ensure that his people would have access to God's word. His bible remained the standard Gaelic copy until the 20^th century.

In part because of his love of the Irish, Bedell and his family were imprisoned in Clough Oughter Castle on a remote crannog (man-made island) on Lough Erne. Though reports confirm that he was treated fairly and eventually moved to a friend's quarters, Bedell suffered physical decline and succumbed to fever. His body was transported to his home: Kilmore Cathedral.

Surrounding the Cathedral are the expansive remains of the motte (mound) and bailey (stone enclosure) built in 1211, long before Bedell's time, as a barricade to isolate and protect the grounds from attack.

One of the most striking features of this ancient site, perhaps, is the Romanesque doorway, dating to the 12^th century, originally a part of the priory on Trinity Island on Lough Oughter. A priceless relic, the doorway is a treasured example of native Irish architecture, dependent on stone and wood.

In Celtic lore, trees were venerated as sources of wisdom and hope, enduring links between the upper and lower worlds, and reminders of the eternal cycles of the seasons. From the ancient markings of Ogham to configurations on the Celtic Calendar, trees epitomize beauty, magnificence, and mystery. At the base of the sycamore tree at Kilmore Cathedral lie the graves of Bishop Bedell and his wife. Perhaps in his own wisdom and hope, Bedell chose the everlasting, timeless tree on which to symbolize his life and honor the legacy of love he left behind.

How to get there:

Located on the outskirts of Cavan along R198, 12km (8 miles) toward Crossdooney, the site is well signposted and easily accessible by car. A tourguide will be needed to see the interior of the cathedral. JoAnne Hayes at Cavan Tourism (www.cavantourism.com) is available to offer assistance and information.

Written by Joy Davis - Summer of Travel 2007